Marigold
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We were 15 minutes late for our reservation–blame the Red Line. Nevertheless, we were cheerily greeted by our hostess, who bouncily ushered us to a table for one of the most pleasant dining experiences I’ve had in months. MARIGOLD, the new upscale Indian restaurant just up the block from the Green Mill, is a family affair: co-owner Sandeep Malhotra and his wife, Laurel, did much of the work designing and rehabbing the low-lit, jewel-toned space; Sandeep’s mother, Balbir, a Delhi native, consulted on the menu with chef Monica Riley, late of another Indian-hybrid venture, Treat. The collaboration pays off in dishes like grilled scallops dusted with garam masala, served with tender asparagus and sprinkled with marigold blossoms. The vegetarian dahi kebab salad was equally eye-opening: pristine microgreens paired with a warm, peppercorn-encrusted yogurt cheese in a garlicky orange-coriander vinaigrette and garnished with pistachio bits and slices of lush fig. Lamb vindaloo–a huge, meaty shank (“Here’s your stegosaurus leg,” said our server) that to my palate could have borne more spice–was the only plate that slightly disappointed, but a side of three fresh house-made chutneys made up for it, as did the dark horse of the meal, a meltingly tender and perfectly spiced tandoori-style chicken. Marigold offers specialty cocktails and a wine list chosen to complement Indian food; when we expressed skepticism about a suggested gewurtztraminer, our server surprised us with tastings of three other candidates, out of which we chose a light-bodied pinot noir. The restaurant has a friendly, neighborhood vibe: “Looks like we ordered the same things you did,” a fellow at the adjoining banquette exclaimed to us. “How was it?” he asked. “Excellent, but here–you must try some of these chutneys.” –Kate Schmidt
