Tru
While you can get signature dishes like chef Rick Tramonto’s caviar “staircase” ($91 for osetra), we opted for the $35 caviar spaetzle, twisted clouds of dough dressed with mushroom foam and a mushroom emulsion and topped with spoonfuls of the tiny eggs. A heart-stoppingly rich poached egg, slow-cooked for 90 minutes, was served in a champagne cream sauce with caviar over asparagus tips and minuscule croutons. And the much-hyped “faux gras,” created for the restaurant by superstar chef Laurent Gras, was a mousselike concoction of chicken liver and pork fat, dusted with cocoa and wrapped in a Sauternes gelee. Unctuous and mild, with a satiny texture, it’s a convincing stand-in for the verboten organ.
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22 E. Hubbard
DeLaCosta, 465 E. Illinois, 312-464-1700
