Continental Cafe
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We liked the amenities at the old Little Bucharest: the free limo service, the jazz duo, the alcoholic “holy water” that owner Branko Podrumedic animatedly proffered to one and all. The dark, gloomy atmosphere, however, would have suited an inn under the shadow of Castle Dracula. Continental Cafe, Podrumedic’s new place, is worlds away from that–high ceilinged, airy, and modern. He’s also added lighter food–salads, sandwiches, burgers–to the menu of hearty Romanian standbys, but you can still get ciorba de burta (tripe soup), mamaliga (polenta topped with feta and sour cream), and traditional grilled meats such as muschiulet de vita (marinated Romanian skirt steak). For appetizers we tried buffalo wings, which were meaty but not spicy, and icre a la Mediterana, a salty caviar spread. Entrees were tasty and, as is typical of Romanian food, very filling–especially the tochitura Moldoveneasca, a Moldavian pork stew in a savory red sauce. The crispy skin was the best part of rata pe varza, half a roast duck served on sweet-and-sour cabbage; on the side there was mamaliga rather than the promised mashed potatoes, but we preferred it and the waitress was so friendly that a fuss would have been out of place. Before dessert (apple strudel and a just-right creme caramel) a mellow Podrumedic, sans holy water, offered us coffee on the house. I got a shot of whiskey in mine, for old times’ sake. –Jeffrey Felshman