Quartino
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The latest venture from the owners of Gibsons Steakhouse and Hugo’s Frog Bar, Quartino takes its cue from Italy’s enoteche, wine bars that serve small plates of everything from antipasti to beef tenderloin. Chef John Coletta (formerly of Carlucci) occasionally puts his own subtle spin on classic recipes but stays true to the main tenets of Italian cuisine: the best ingredients, simply prepared. Plates of thinly sliced sopressata, rich duck prosciutto, and soft, pungent mortadella (the only salumi not cured in-house) come with garnishes of giardinera, mostarda (fruit candied with a touch of mustard seed), and sweet-and-sour cucumbers. Fried polenta sticks, served with a red pepper sauce, are perfectly prepared: crisp on the outside and soft and creamy inside. Homemade gnocchi didn’t quite achieve pillowy transcendence, but a peppery arugula pesto invited forgiveness. Angus beef carpaccio, paired with celery and shaved Parmesan, was silky and subtle. The only complaint about a grilled Nutella panino for dessert was that it didn’t arrive oozing hot; profiteroles with vanilla gelato and chocolate sauce made for an elegant if messy ending. Wines–many offered in the U.S. here exclusively–are available by the quartino (quarter liter), half liter, and carafe, and there are also plenty of options by the bottle. Best of all, Quartino is surprisingly affordable, especially compared to its neighbor, Enoteca at Osteria Via Stato. Lunch service here will begin February 7. –Heather Kenny
at night. –Martha Bayne
Sola, 3868 N. Lincoln, 773-327-3868
Art accompanying story in printed newspaper (not available in this archive): photos/Rob Warner.
