The cuisines of Mexican states such as Guerrero and Michoacan are well represented in the Chicago area. Preparations from Yucatan, Nayarit, and Nuevo Leon appear less frequently, but these geographically disparate regions have cooking traditions that are also worthy of exploration.
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Perhaps the most popular Yucatecan standard on Chicago menus is cochinita pibil, pork shoulder slathered with achiote, a paste of ground annatto seeds, lime, and vinegar; traditionally it’s cooked in a pit. You can get reliable versions at Fonda del Mar (3749 W. Fullerton, 773-489-3748) and Adobo Grill (1610 N. Wells, 312-266-7999, and 2005 W. Division, 773-252-9990). The most commonly encountered menu item in Yucatan, on the other hand, is sopa de lima: lime soup. Although you’ll rarely see this on Chicago menus, you can simulate it by simply ordering chicken soup at a Mexican restaurant and squirting in some citrus. Tomatoes are a traditional but optional ingredient; limes, which probably originated in India before being carried west from the Near East by Crusaders and thence to the New World, are obviously mandatory.
Wherever you find descendants of the Maya–not just in the Yucatan, but in Guatemala and Honduras, for example–black beans seem to be the preferred frijoles, as opposed to the light-red pintos more often used in Chicago’s Mexican restaurants. Black beans are sometimes seen on menus at restaurants such as That Little Mexican Cafe (1010 Church, Evanston, 847-905-1550, and 1055 W. Bryn Mawr, 773-769-1004) and fancy places like Topolobampo (445 N. Clark, 312-661-1434). They’re always served at Ricos Huaraches at the Maxwell Street Market (Sundays at Roosevelt and Canal).
Monterrey is the capital of the northern state of Nuevo Leon, which saw some heavy Jewish migration when the Inquisition hit Mexico City in the 16th century. Jewish culinary influences may help explain the relative lack of pork and the popularity of goat and beef in dishes from this state.
Art accompanying story in printed newspaper (not available in this archive): photo/Rob Warner (food); Elizabeth M. Tamny (map).
