Schwa
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These days it seems like every other restaurant is all local this, seasonal that, and SCHWA is no exception: “Schwa uses only the freshest, finest and organic ingredients when possible,” the menu brags. But those are more than just buzzwords for this place, which has taken over the old Lovitt space and whose executive chef (and co-owner) is Michael Carlson, formerly Lovitt’s sous-chef. Back when Lovitt opened in 2002 it didn’t have a lot of company in the local-and-seasonal category. The small, dimly lit restaurant served simple vegetarian-friendly food that put the spotlight squarely on the farmers and producers who supplied the ingredients. It was cozy and casual and not too pricey–$25 would get you a wholesome meal prepared with obvious care. Schwa is a lot lighter and brighter, not to mention more expensive (dinner for one was $44, and that’s without drinks). The food is gorgeous: a soft-boiled egg was coated in bread crumbs, then fried golden brown and served with a butter yellow potato puree, a dab of creme fraiche, and a dainty spoon of black Illinois caviar; the seitan roast was cut into diamonds and decorated with fresh peanuts and ribbons of basil. It didn’t taste quite as good as it looked, though. The egg’s bread-crumb shell had a weird spongy texture, as did the seitan, which was way too salty, and the coffee was bitter. They’d been open just two nights when I was there, however, and these little missteps may well get sorted out as Carlson and his team get their bearings. Keri Putney, Carlson’s partner, was the pastry chef at Trio and the Peninsula, and my dessert was revelatory: pineapple and banana roasted until the sugars caramelized and the very edges turned black, seasoned with sea salt and pepper and accompanied by a glass of lemongrass custard. It’s one of those weird flavor combinations that engages every taste bud and sends you home wanting more. Schwa is BYO forever. –Anaheed Alani
