Il Mulino
And yes, portions are huge. Steak cartoccio, from an epic list of specials, was a formidable brick of cow smothered in sauteed mushrooms and guarded by a circular battlement of fried potatoes. But apart from its size, “you can get the same thing at Denny’s,” said my underwhelmed companion. I ate it, but the question remained: what possible justification is there for this $60 steak? I can only guess that the majority of food ordered at Il Mulino is taken home and eaten over a week of lunches, or perhaps presented to the servants in lieu of wages. Another problem, noted by the Dallas defendant as well, is that many of the dishes are overrich and oversauced; my Flintstone-size osso buco was slathered with a thick port gravy more suitable for ice cream. The same goes for the porcini ravioli in champagne-black truffle sauce–highly adhesive, and with barely a hint of fungal funk.
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1132 W. Grand
3868 N. Lincoln
Chiyo, 3800 W. Lawrence, 773-267-1555
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