Dragon Court2414 S. Wentworth | 312-791-1882

$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 11 | BYO

Evergreen2411 S. Wentworth | 312-225-8898

The Bull has something for both the beef-and-broccoli set and those seeking a challenge like frog with yellow chives. A variety of impeccable Chinese greens are always on offer (usually pea pod shoots, water spinach, mustard greens, and watercress). Fried smelt, steamed whole sole, and deep-fried chicken are customer favorites. The homemade egg rolls are fantastic—plump and greaseless. Seaweed soup is another great starter—the velvety pork broth is loaded with shrimp, ground pork, egg, and seaweed and finished with a dash of sesame oil. The salt-and-pepper fried shrimp is too salty for me, but otherwise faultless. I have mixed feelings about the seafood chow fun; the noodles are alternately crispy-fried and soft—an effect that chow fun enthusiasts seek out—but the heavily cornstarched sauce muddies the shrimp, squid, and scallops. The fried tofu is more than the menu lets on: a brown sauce covers puddinglike tofu and shiitakes. It’s not the revelatory Japanese tofu with king mushrooms offered at Ken-Kee down the block, but it’s close. —Peter Tyksinski

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$$Chinese | Lunch, dinner: seven days

Ken-Kee Restaurant2129-A S. China Pl. | 312-326-2088