Les Nomades
Best of Chicago voting is live now. Vote for your favorites »
Despite some dramatic changes in the kitchen, LES NOMADES is still the best fine restaurant in Chicago. Roland Liccioni left in December; his ex-wife, Mary Beth Liccioni, who owns the restaurant, replaced him with chef Charlie McKenna and sous-chef David Hayden, both from Avenues. Within a month she’d fired them both–their modern, eclectic approach wasn’t in keeping with the classic French fare this venerable establishment is known for–and hired Chris Nugent, who’s worked at Betise, MK, and the Park Avenue Cafe. Nugent has restored the menu’s traditional tone, marked by refined sauces, decadent ingredients in intricate flavor combinations, and gorgeous plate presentations. His duck consomme is clear as day, with concentrated, rich duck flavor, and decorated with diced carrots and mushrooms. In another dish, two diver scallops are served with thin-sliced seared veal cheeks, cauliflower mousseline (pureed cauliflower and cream whipped until airy), and a drizzle of mustard oil. Glistening yellow and red beets and juicy orange sections are gently tossed in a citrus balsamic vinaigrette and served with rich goat cheese quenelles. Roasted veal tenderloin and crispy veal sweetbreads are accompanied by al dente wild mushroom risotto and wilted Swiss chard, all in a perigueux sauce (a veal stock reduction with truffles). The wine list is broad in terms of variety, vintage, and price, and it’s served by attentive, competent waiters who’ve mastered pairing.
