Moxie
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There are probably a lot of reasons for Chicago’s current small-plate craze, but as anyone who’s ever ordered off the appetizer menu can tell you, a lot of little portions often just make for a more interesting meal. Plus, if you don’t like what you’ve ordered you’re not stuck chewing through $25 of it. Prior to a recent renovation, MOXIE was already producing well-regarded small-plate fare; the place was low-key yet polished and upscale without being expensive, an oasis on a Wrigleyville strip dominated by burgers, fries, and tap beer. It reopened August 5, with a new menu from chef Christopher Swan, and so far its reputation appears secure. The new look is soothing and chic: limestone walls, dark paneled wood with chocolate accents, mosaic tile behind the open kitchen, and low-slung seating in various hues of beige. What was once a limited tapas list has now been expanded to include 30 or so small plates that range in price from $6 to $12. Of the six dishes my girlfriend and I sampled, five were superb. Lobster Rangoon, a delicious, deconstructed take on the Thai classic, featured huge chunks of lobster mixed with cream cheese and Grand Marnier, then placed on a bed of roasted red pepper, which itself floated on a red pepper coulis. The lobster was spectacular, moist and flavorful and not at all diminished by the other ingredients. The chip of wonton that stuck out of the side of the dish was a playful reminder of the dish’s provenance and also proved useful for scooping. Skewered flank steak, nicely scored with grill marks, was rubbed with ancho pepper and served with lime wedges and a cool cilantro cream sauce that balanced the mild peppery flavor of the meat. Crab cakes (ever so slightly overcooked) came with corn, green onion, and pepper; crispy shrimp was lightly fried in garlic oil; and a Caribbean salad combined mixed greens, toasted pecans, mango, and jicama. The only misfire–though quite a large one–was the bruschetta, a hunk of untoasted, unoiled bread topped with tomato and goat cheese that sat in my mouth like a wet sponge. Therein, however, lies the beauty of the small plate. –Chip Dudley
