Nazarlik
The Aksoys, who opened their little mom-and-pop in late June, only make cig kofte by special order, partly because it’s so much work to prepare, but also because it has a short shelf life.
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Depending on the amount he’s making, Aksoy might knead the mixture for one to two hours, which “cooks” it. “The spices have to become one with the meat,” explains the Aksoys’ 20-year-old daughter, Secil. “The spices all have a part of some kind of cure. It protects the meat from being dangerous.” The finished mixture is molded into small torpedoes eaten wrapped in cool lettuce, with a squirt of lemon juice.
Whoever came up with it, the dish evolved, incorporating a variety of different spices. Instead of the traditional mutton, Ahmet uses lean beef he cuts, trims, and grinds himself. He prefers to keep his exact recipe a secret, but I saw him add sumac, fresh garlic and onions, chopped green garlic tops, ginger, and four different red pepper pastes, including a dark, fiery isot paste imported from Turkey.
