Tipsycake

Stepanek, a 33-year-old native of Sydney, is something of an ambassador for Aussie and English sweets in her new hood. One of several unusual specialties she offers are lamingtons, jam-filled rectangles of sponge cake soaked in chocolate and dredged in dried coconut. They’re about the size of a doughnut and “just as common” in Sydney pastry shops, she says. She also offers pavlova, a meringue shell filled with fruit and whipped cream and claimed by both New Zealanders and Australians as a national dish; a Hungarian pancake pie, which is a nod to her mom, who left Hungary for Australia during World War II; and her personal favorite, banoffi pies and cakes, a traditional English recipe featuring a rich banana-caramel custard made with condensed milk and brown sugar.

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Stepanek is quick to credit Adriana Carrillo, her executive pastry chef, with being a better baker than she is. For her part Carrillo, also an IIA grad, acknowledges having become possessive about the kitchen. “I kicked her out,” Carrillo says, smiling. “It’s for her own good, you know; she’s got things she needs to do.” Stepanek nods. “It’s hard for me to tell you she’s a better baker than me, but there’s one thing I bake that no one else can: scones.” Sure enough, her scones are wonderfully craggy mounds, buttery rich and barely sweet, with a perfect crumbly texture. For 50 cents more Stepanek sells them with a daub of jam and fresh whipped cream.