South of Jalisco on the Pacific coast, Michoacan is the traditional home of the Tarascans, an indigenous people who flourished in this region before Europe came a-knocking. Millions of monarch butterflies migrate to the northeastern tip of the state each year, coming from as far away as Canada to spend mating season in the warmth of the Mexican sun.
Best of Chicago voting is live now. Vote for your favorites »
When cruising for la cocina Michoacana, I keep my eyes peeled for signs with names like Michoacan (obviously), Uruapan (second-largest city in the state), or Morelia (the state capital). When I spotted Morelia Taqueria (150 N. Broadway in Melrose Park) I stomped on the brakes. At this tiny storefront, its windows papered with phone-card ads, the huaraches (thin masa bases practically the size of snowshoes) and sopes (same thing, only smaller, thicker, and shaped like little boats) are made from cornmeal hand pressed on-site. The resulting polentalike platforms are fried and topped with cheese and pork, steak, chicken, or chicharrones, crispy little bits of pork skin. The crunchy crust has the fresh smack that’s possible only when cornmeal is griddled to order. I detected some pineapple and orange mixed into the cheese topping, and the chef, a native of Morelia, told me that citrus fruit is common on huaraches from Michoacan.
CARNITAS
