Volo Restaurant Wine Bar
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Jon Young, the chef and owner of Kitsch’n on Roscoe, has jumped onto the small-plate bandwagon with Volo Restaurant Wine Bar. Talented executive chef Stephen Dunne (Spago, MK) executes a limited, constantly changing menu of seasonal dishes. Sweet, plump mussels were steamed in white wine and butter and flecked with parsley. Long shards of sesame flatbread poked out of three quenelles of steak tartare served with crunchy radish sprouts. Two sea scallops were sliced and fanned across a silky cauliflower puree, then topped with a sunny-side up quail egg, American sturgeon caviar, fresh arugula, and wisps of fried leek. Sliced rare beef came with haricots verts, skinny fried potato sticks, and shaved fennel tossed in lemon juice and olive oil. There’s an artisanal cheese plate offered every night–it changes frequently but might include French favorites like Epoisses, Valencay, and Sainte-Maure or domestic selections like Humbolt Fog and Point Reyes blue. Wine from an impressive global list comes by the glass, the carafe (a little over two glasses), the bottle, or the flight. The room is interesting: a row of doors is hung above the banquettes, and two tables are positioned in nooks by the front windows; the spot lighting is a little harsh, though.
Ballo
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