Treat
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Tamiz Haiderali, the chef at the new Humboldt Park place TREAT, has bounced around the restaurant scene for years, including a stint as a server at Lula, but says he’s been taken aback by the early success of his first venture as owner: “I think I underestimated the need for a restaurant in this neighborhood.” Formerly Mama Kitty’s, and before that “some sort of chicken shack,” the cozy and cheery restaurant has only been open seven weeks, but it’s quickly become a destination for affordable, creative cooking. The menu’s an eclectic mix–some tweaked American basics, a few veggie and vegan options, and a handful of classic Indian dishes. The last may be the weak link in an otherwise solid kitchen: chicken tikka masala was nicely spiced but kind of dry and a recent special of sag paneer was unbalanced, served with a heaping portion of rice and heavy on the cheese. Though the accompanying candy-colored papaddums went a long way toward winning us over, ultimately I had to agree with my friend: “If I really wanted sag paneer, why would I come here?” But an entree of pan-seared salmon was perfectly cooked, just a skosh on the far side of rare; served with wilted spinach, sweet teardrop tomatoes, a yogurt-mint sauce, and herb oil, the whole plate was as clean and refreshing as summer rain. A roasted wild mushroom appetizer was a crisp, tidy phyllo packet of ‘shrooms and chevre on a bed of arugula and oven-roasted tomatoes dressed with a balsamic reduction; fennel gratin, another appetizer, wedded mild slices of fennel to a surprisingly complex, satisfying cream sauce. The soup of the day–watercress vichyssoise–cracked me up, its crouton raft with a leafy watercress sail floating on the deep bowl of ultrasmooth, mild puree. Treat is BYO (there’s a liquor store a block west on North), and only a few menu items break the $10 barrier. The kitchen may not be in the same league as Lula’s yet, but the reasonable tabs and sunny, welcoming vibe go a long way toward making it a real competitor. Brunch service is slated to start in August. –Martha Bayne
Ann Sather, 5207 N. Clark
